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Bremen

The visitor to Bremen is soon aware that this is a city which can look back on a thousand years of history, still alive and being cherished. The whole place is visibly steeped in tradition, and has an atmosphere redolent almost of a Grimm fairy tale.

Bremen, 37 miles from the mouth of the River Weser and Germany’s oldest maritime city, has held markets since 965, joined the Hanseatic League in 1358 and began to trade with America in 1783. Cotton and coffee gave its citizens a rich living.

Nowhere is its history more evident than in the market square in the heart of the old town, where the architectural styles of five different eras are visible. Outstanding is the Altes Rathaus (old town hall), built between 1404 and 1410 and a fine example of North German architecture with a magnificent Renaissance façade.

Right next to the town hall is one of Bremen’s most famous landmarks, statue of the Street Musicians of Bremen (an ass, a dog, a cat and a cock) from the Brothers Grimm fairy tale. But the landmark that best symbolises the city’s freedom and independence of spirit is the 30ft statue of the knight Roland that has been calmly smiling down on the marketplace since 1404.

Other notable buildings that reflect Bremen’s history are the Schütting, former merchants’ guildhall of the 16th century, and the massive cathedral whose spires soar upwards to a height of 320 feet. The old and narrow Böttcherstrasse, a street museum with many restored mediaeval buildings, now houses high-quality artists’ and craftsmen’s shops.

Go a few steps further and you will find yourself in one of the most characterful quarters of Bremen, the Schnoorviertel, with its picturesque burghers’ houses, some of which date back to the 15th century, cosy taverns and small shops.

And after a tour of the city sights and a trip round the old harbour (from where it is said that the Saxons set off in 449 for England) a visit to the Ratskeller, offering more than 600 varieties of wine, is definitely in order . . .

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