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Berlin

Berlin is truly a 24-hour-a-day city, a huge, vibrant and varied metropolis offering a fascinating combination of glamour, entertainment, culture and sights to suit virtually every taste and budget. It was, even before re-unification, one of Europe’s most cosmopolitan centres. It is now – once again – Germany’s capital, and the energy and growth to be felt in the new undivided city is very exciting.

Most of the infamous Wall has been demolished, though the Brandenburg Gate, which predated the Wall by 170 years, survives as arguably the city’s best-known landmark. War-time devastation and decades of Soviet occupation left the Eastern sector looking fairly drab, but now everything is changing fast. By the year 2003, some 200 billion D-Marks will have been invested in rebuilding much of the East and joining together the two former halves of the city. Already, a number of smart new hotels have been erected in the former East, and some of Berlin’s smartest shopping malls and arcades have been constructed, like the Passagen in the Friedrichstrasse. There are also numerous “alternative” boutiques in the equally “alternative” Prenzlauer Berg district, the former East Berlin’s “Left Bank”.

Back in the former West, there is Kreuzberg, just south of the city centre, another “Left Bank” district full of artists, colourful street markets and a high proportion of the city’s large Turkish immigrant community. In fact, the huge number of foreign immigrants over the past 40 years has contributed enormously to the multicultural flair and verve of the city, with its dozens and dozens of exotic restaurants, foreign cabarets and experimental theatre groups and revues.

Berlin has always been a shopper’s paradise; it has now become a world-class one. Saunter down the Kurfürstendamm (“Ku’damm” for short), Berlin’s main thoroughfare, a two-mile stretch of big stores, boutiques at every price level, cafés, cinemas, theatres and galleries. One end is dominated by the Memorial Church, whose ruined tower is both a war memorial and a major city landmark. The world-famous “KaDeWe” nearby, reputed to be the Continent’s largest department store, is an elegant and almost unrivalled shopping experience, especially its luxurious food hall on the sixth floor.

Music and entertainment are inseparable from the life of Berlin. There are three major opera houses and innumerable theatres, including Bertolt Brecht’s Berliner Ensemble. Lovers of variety shows will make a bee-line for the Friedrichstadtpalast, Europe’s largest and most modern revue theatre, and renowned for its lavish productions. There are also several major symphony orchestras, including the celebrated Berlin Philharmonic, plus countless concerts and recitals by major artists and talented newcomers alike.

Berlin never closes. During the day, there are literally hundreds of acres of beautifully landscaped parks and forests for strolling in, and countless inviting cafés and pastry shops, or Konditoreien, offering some of Germany’s finest cakes. (Forget the calories – this is a holiday!) Or try some of the museums that have made the city famous, such as the great Dahlem Museum complex, with its fabulous collections of art from around the world. Or visit the great collections on the Museum Island, particularly the Pergamon Museum, a world-famous repository of classical antiquities. Smaller museums include the Bauhaus Archive and the Egyptian Museum.

In the evening – and throughout the night, as Berlin has no restrictive licensing hours – Berlin’s pubs (“Kneipen”) and nightclubs offer an endless menu of relaxation and musical entertainment – jazz, rock and folk. The food is good, too! And transport throughout the city is easy. There are over 30 night-bus lines and the U-Bahn, or Underground, generally operates 21 hours a day.

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